Written by Sr. Sylvia Jopillo, r.a. Some 500+ kilometers from Madrid tucked on the upper apron of the mountains rimming the Lago de Sanabria in the province of Zamora is the Monasterio de San Martin de Castañeda. This 12th-century monastery continues to stand among the hills and fields of the tiny town of Ribadelago. It is still known as the Monasterio de Santa Maria, although it currently houses its patron saint's parish church, San Martin de Castañeda. The church benefited from the cultural reconstruction efforts supported by the government. Constructed by the Cistercian monks in the 12th century, on the outside, the present church exterior was recently renovated but maintained its imposing belfry and giant bells. As in the olden times, one enters the monastery through an ancient gate. With the long-gone Cistercian monks, the monastery maintains its Romanic architecture, with its dark and cool interiors and retablos or side altars flanked by massive stone pillars. The domes with their designs and the solid stone baptismal font dominating the side altar lead the eyes to the main retablo, with the antique wooden polychrome statue of San Martin de Castañeda mounted on a horse. The church layout is in the form of the cross, with its side altars forming arches. The church became the center of the town's farming and fishing activities. What is striking is the play of light and shadows in the church interiors—the rays pouring from its high windows into the dark interior trigger a sense of transcendence in me. How light and shadows can inhabit the same space, and how clear the boundary where they melt into each other like a liminal space hit me. This sense of living with contrast showed during a catastrophe in Ribadelago in 1959 when the Vega de Tera dam's retaining wall collapsed. The rushing waters left little time for the Ribadelago's inhabitants to escape. Reports showed that 144 (out of 532 inhabitants) went missing, and help came late due to the distance and poor road network connecting Ribadelago from the provincial center. The tragedy mobilized a nationwide effort to help the victims' families and the town. At the site where most of the victims lived stands a mother and child statue to honor those lost to the flood. The surrounding mountains still bear marks by the cascading torrents of water from its summit and into the settlement. I can sense the spiritual force of the beauty of Ribadelago with its lake and ancient church. Its scarred mountainsides and tranquil Rio de Tera. And yet, I can also imagine how the earth shakes with the rumble of the flood waters that swept everything away. Over time, the tiny town continues its simple life as the clearness of each summer day and the cold of winter unfold as part of life's seasons. The shepherds and the cow herders pass through the same trails and narrow roads, the farmers and fishermen harvest chestnuts and trout, and the tourists come with their thirst for rest, beauty, and silence. Everyone goes home with a full heart.
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Written by Sr. Sylvia Jopillo, r.a. After a leisurely four-hour drive from Madrid, the noise suddenly ceases, and an 8-km winding narrow road opens from the Sanabria town in the province of Zamora into the mountains. Snaking through a secondary forest of white birches, willow, ash, and yews, along with scrubs carpeted with ferns and moss, glimpses of the serene lake peek through the trees' branches. How quiet everything is! The Lago de Sanabria is a glacial lake fed by the river Tera. Forming part of a vast 22,365 hectares of natural park with its mountain ranges and forest, the lake appears like a tortoise jewel in the heart of the park. It covers 3.48 square kilometers spanning 3.3 km long and 1.47 km wide. Its deepest part is at 51 meters which is suitable for boating and fishing. The water is incredibly clear in summer, with gentle breezes occasionally rippling through its surface. The tranquility of the lake is soothing, and I leave behind the noise and summer heat of Madrid! The lake view is a visual feast that compensates for the long drive from the city. The small town ambiance with its slate-roofed houses and cows browsing on the scrubs completes the quiet that pulls me to contemplate the holy hocks blooming on a doorway and the flowering chestnut trees carpeting the grounds with their dry blooms. Driving along the lake's perimeter into the Ribadelago town provides another refreshing stop. There is a beach to bathe in and enjoy the warm lake water! Families come and spend vacations staying in rented quaint rural houses a walking distance from the beach. One can pitch a day tent and enjoy bathing and sunning. Ribadelago is so tiny but with a combination of wonderful amenities. An accessible sand beach, precious lake views, a jetty for those who wish to swim in deep water, and boating facilities. Even with family vacationers enjoying the beach, the place strikes me as quiet and uncrowded. It has a few café bars, a simple hostal, and a restaurant with an ample Terraza! I love my lunch of Caldo Gallego, a soup with grelos (a vegetable eaten only stewed), pork bits and chorizos, and a whole grilled trout with a side of lettuce and tomatoes! Lunch is complete with the local Tinto chilled to perfection and ice cream cake for dessert. What is impressive is the enormous servings of everything! Families on vacation frequent the Terrazas and café bars for breakfast and lunch and order bocadillos de jamón for their beach outing. Relaxing 2 to 3 days on the lake is ideal, but my day trip pays me a considerable dividend. The tranquility of the lake reflecting the blue sky on a clear day makes me feel an inner joy that time stands still, and I can see forever, so I'm coming back for a more extended stay. Where is Lago de Sanarias?
I am in Spain now. To be more specific, Madrid. I had been to Spain so many times but only stayed in Madrid for a day or overnight. I decided to stay in the city longer and know it this time. Coming from the Philippines, Spain has a unique role in our history and culture, so it is worth exploring. To prepare, I augmented my knowledge of Spanish (24 units in university) by learning the language online to get by when I got here quickly. This learning turned out to be very useful. I can say that my experience of traveling to Spain during a pandemic was not stressful at all. I filled out the Health Visa form online, which was all I needed when I got to the airport. All the information they needed was there, and after submitting the form online, they sent you a QR code which you print and bring with you. I traveled a few days before the Omicron variant surfaced. At that time, Canadians who were doubly vaccinated need not have a test to enter Spain. I did take the test just in case the airline or any other authority asked for the negative test result at transit. I lost a piece of luggage. Losing a piece of luggage was not the first time for me, so I immediately went to the Lost Luggage counter to fill up the form. The next day, the airline delivered my luggage. Now, I am in my new neighborhood of Santa Engracia. Ponzano Street, where people eat in its array of restaurants, is very close, an effortless walk to my delight. So, my first afternoon, a friend joined me in a cheese and wine in one of the restaurants. This morning, I walked around the neighborhood to familiarize myself with the area. I had discovered the closest grocery store, and it has everything. I ventured out to look for anything to make my place comfortable and relaxing, and I found a flower shop where I saw some orchids. It says it's open, but the door was closed. Seeing my hesitation, a lady came to open the door and pointed to me the door chime that I did not see. I went in and saw there were several orchids. With my limited Spanish, I arrived at my choice and even a vase to hold it. The lady prepared it and called me where she was working. We introduced ourselves, and before I knew it, she offered me a bunch of lavender and a few flowers, which she said I could put in my bathroom. I was surprised to get all these freebies.
I went home satisfied with my purchase. Watch out for more of my adventure here in sunny Spain. I was delighted to be here in Madrid. It was not an easy decision. I was still concerned about traveling abroad given the resurgence of covid cases in many countries, especially Europe. But I took courage, and once I had decided, I went through all the requirements and started putting together what I needed.
I thought it would be stressful, but I found out that doing the conditions was easy. I had my proof of double vaccination. Spain requires beyond this proof filling up a health form which is available online and easy to do. Just make sure you have all your documents with you. Immediately after you have submitted the completed form, Spain sends a QR Code which you can save on your phone or print. I took a rapid antigen test to ensure that if the airline required it, I had it, but this was not the case. For my peace of mind, it was necessary. As I was transiting in Lisbon, I had to fill up the Passenger Locator Form, and just like the one in Spain, Portugal sends a QR code that you print or save on your phone. This process proved to be a bit of a hassle as I did not immediately realize that because I was transiting, I needed to put the postal code of the airport. In the end, it didn't look as if it was necessary, but I felt prepared. Someone told me to have it with me just in case someone asks for it. When I arrived at the Adolfo Suarez Barajas airport, they only looked at the Health Form and nothing more. It was so easy as there were none of the usual lineups for the passport check. I was pleasantly surprised. The only drawback was the loss of one of my suitcases. It was left in Lisbon during the transfer but having had this experience before, I just went to the Lost luggage and was told it was in Lisbon. I filled up the form and left confident that I would get it the next day, and I did. The trip was far from stressful, not beyond what we usually experience on trips such as these. Now, I enjoy a different environment, sunny and pleasant with good food and, yes, coffee. I was glad I took the plunge. This week, many countries added travel restrictions because of the new covid variant found in the southern part of Africa. I'm here now and will stay for a month or two to enjoy nice weather, different culture, a new environment, delicious food, and varied acquaintances. Taking risks often pays off. It made me worried a bit before my departure, but I did the requirements one at a time and relaxed before my trip. It turned out to be relatively easy. Before filling up the form required by Spain and Portugal, you need to have your Airline seat number. You can go to your airline website to choose your seat if you don't yet have it. You can do this before you check in. It is also better for you to go to the airport early. I was at the airport three hours before my flight, so I was the first in line to check my luggage in with the airline. Even at security, there was yet no long line making it very easy to navigate. The only thing I still haven't learned even after years of travel is the weight of my carry-on. It is within what's required, but it is heavy for me. I constantly reminded myself to bring a suitcase that I could roll, but I tended to fill this up with more things, making it hard to put it in the airline overhead bin because of my height. This time, the airline overhead bin is within my easy reach. I wish I had brought one that I could roll because carrying the bag on a long walk to the gate was a challenge. There are always people willing to help put it up anyway. I was glad I brought an adapter, so I immediately plugged in my devices when I arrived-without hassle and stress. So, remember to prepare the things you need at your destination. Have a checklist before you pack, and make sure you have these things in your suitcase. If you want to go somewhere new and you are allowed entry, take the risk and enjoy. It's doable, even easy. In the Fall, Monticello is transformed into a festival of colours and the majestic view of the Blueridge Mountains that Jefferson enjoyed during his lifetime is there for you to enjoy. Jefferson, the third President of the United States, designed this plantation. Monticello is not only a historic national landmark but also a UNESCO Heritage site together with the University of Virginia that Jefferson also designed. Just outside of Charlottesville in the Piedmont region of Virginia, this 5,000 acres of land was first worked on by African slaves cultivating tobacco, a popular and lucrative export then. So, as you go in the place from the parking lot, there is the cemetery for the slaves. In the Fall, it is such a beautiful place especially with the maples changing colours but beneath this beauty, the dark history of slavery lingers. When Jefferson lived there, there were about 150 slaves working in the plantation. Today, there is a marked off are where the slaves were buried as you can see in the picture below. Monticello during the time of Jefferson totalled to around 5000 acres planted in tobacco which was the cash crop at that time. Thus, the slaves to work on the plantation. There are still some of the dwellings of the slaves on the property along Mulberry Row. Mulberry Row was an experiment on silk making. It is along here that the slaves lived. Along Mulberry Row were the slave dwellings and one of these is shown below. Monticello during the time of Jefferson was almost a self-contained plantation with most of its needs produced there and the services were attended to as well. So, there are trades workshops in the place to provide these services. Some of the slaves became skilled working in these. Below is the garden which at the time of Jefferson not only provided for the plantation needs but also served as an experimental farm where he planted plants he brought from his travel. Jefferson also designed the basement area of the house where a wine cellar, storage places and work areas were placed. Below are some of the pictures. Archaelogy students continue to dig in the property and more will be discovered about Monticello. We await as it reveals more of its secrets. More information on Monticello:
Address: 931 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy, Charlottesville, VA 22902, United States Website |
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