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If you’re searching for an island-hopping destination that still feels untouched, look no further than Concepcion, a quiet cluster of islands off the coast of Iloilo. Here, powdery white beaches, crystal-clear waters, and island after island await—without the crowds that usually come with postcard-perfect destinations. We didn’t discover Concepcion while chasing beaches or sunsets. We found it on a relief trip, navigating broken roads and storm-battered communities after a typhoon. At the time, we didn’t realize that beyond the hardship lay one of the most beautiful—and least visited—island groups in the Philippines. That first trip left a lasting impression. Although we were busy with relief work, we promised ourselves we would return—not to help, but to linger. To swim in the clear waters, snorkel over coral gardens, and feast on freshly caught seafood. So one summer—schools in the Philippines close from March to May—we went back. What we discovered kept us returning again and again. In Concepcion, as in much of the Philippines, summer feels endless. For years it was our secret. Alas, secrets like this rarely stay hidden forever. Where Is Concepcion? Concepcion is a municipality made up of 17 islands, located in the province of Iloilo on the island of Panay, in the central Philippines. It belongs to the same island group as Boracay, yet feels worlds away in pace and atmosphere. Still Pristine, Still Peaceful Despite its beauty, Concepcion remains refreshingly uncrowded. Often, you’ll find yourself island hopping alone—or at most, sharing the sea with one or two other boats. There are no towering hotels or sprawling resorts. Many islands are either uninhabited or home only to caretakers and fishing families who have lived there for generations. Developers have already come knocking with tempting offers, but selling land would mean giving up a way of life. For many families, the decision is far from simple. For now, most accommodations remain small and basic—bamboo cottages, simple rooms, and a few beachside huts.There's a hotel in town and some resorts have cropped up recently. One of the most popular is Cielo del Norte. With a Bohemian ambience and affordable prices, it's very popular with locals and those in the nearby towns. It's always full on weekends and holidays. A typical day in Concepcion can begin early at the fishing port, enjoying breakfast while boats unload the morning catch. From there, you can rent a boat with a local captain, head out to the islands, and even camp on a deserted shore for your own Robinson Crusoe moment. Do note that some islands now charge small entrance fees—usually no more than a dollar—to help with maintenance and conservation. It’s a small price to pay. Concepcion"s tourist department has also taken the management of the island hopping. You need to register with them and the islands you can visit are now limited to four. Instead of haggling with boat owners, the department has fixed the price. Island-Hopping at Its Best
Concepcion is ideal for island hopping because the islands sit close to one another, each with its own character. Some feature dramatic rock formations, others long sandbars or vibrant coral reefs. A few are inhabited, offering opportunities to meet locals who often share stories of life on the islands—and their experiences during Typhoon Yolanda. Today, marine life is noticeably richer thanks to the establishment of a marine park in the area. Several islands remain uninhabited except for caretakers, who may happily cook lunch for you for a small fee. Expect fresh, generous servings of seafood—simple, flavorful, and unforgettable. Not Yet Overrun by Tourists Concepcion has so far escaped mass tourism. Large tour operators have not fully packaged the destination, and facilities remain limited, which naturally keeps visitor numbers low. Even many locals from Iloilo have yet to explore the area, though improved roads are slowly changing that. Last night was quite an experience. We try to go and see new restaurants in Iloilo. We always pass by Marlu’s on our way to the city and we planned for quite sometime to go there. Somehow, the plan only materialized last night when my sister’ daughter in law celebrated her birthday. It was just spur of the moment that they added my sister and I to the celebration. We did not expect much. We arrived before the celebrant so we had a chance to have a look and see of the restaurant. Our guardian angels even inspired the owner to start a conversation with us. He gave us stories of how he built the place. He wanted to honor the Tirol family name and give it timeless significance by naming the building Cocjin-Tirol. But over and beyond that he also immortalized the woman who was known to most of us as the super active president of the girl scouts. Jake, the owner of Marlu’s is her son. He told us that recently the girl scouts made him an honorary member. Jake did not stop at naming the building such. He also named several dishes after his beloved mother, Mama Ruth. An interesting feature of the restaurant is the garden which follows the iconic rice terraces of Benguet Province. In addition, there is a truly authentic Ifugao house. Set on the terraced garden with tasteful lighting, one indeed is transported to another part of the Philippines. The kids with us enjoyed this highlight immensely. It opens them to a unique cultural Phillipppine icon. Moreover, Jake told us that his parents brought this Ifugao house all the way from the North where the Ifugaos, a Philippine native tribe lived. Four Ifugaos travelled by boat for the first time in their lives to accompany the house and put it back together here. An endeavour that kids around here in the Visayas can appreciate this cultural heritage of our fellow Filipinos up north.
Going back to Marlu’s. Jake emphasized that his vision is for ordinary folks in Iloiloto feel at home in a restaurant with fine dining. He has other plans for the second floor such as a bar, not the typical in the city with blaring lights and loud noise but a place to enjoy a quiet drink with family and friends. He wants to create a ball room for events such as weddings and other celebrations. His over thirty years of living in North America gave him enough experience to make this happen. And soon it will so watch out for its opening. Before you leave the place, look carefully at the Christmas village in the entrance. We’ll see if you can find the historic Farmacia Socorro Building with the famous Roberto’s siopao on top. With Jake, we reminisced the old city with calesas and all to the empty faces of the young ones who did not have such an experience. But to the main feature of the restaurant, its food and service. The food is really delicious. We had Crispy pasta, sinigang with pork belly, smoked salmon and mango salad, and fried chicken for the kids with two kinds of rice. The salad dressing is really good. For desert, we had batirol and sans rival. The latter is not the usual overly sweet one. We had a good conversation with one of the servers around the batirol and suman. The service is impeccable. The servers are always filling up our glasses. By the way, the drinks are superb. I had the sangria which I enjoyed. The others were driving so they stuck to the cucumber and water melon juices (not from powder), healthy and refreshing. The kids spent extra time viewing the fish, the terraces and the Ifugao house. Not only the adults enjoyed but the kids as well. So, with delicious dishes, refreshing drinks, beautiful and unique ambience, super clean facilities, right at the door parking and interesting conversations, what are you waiting for? Marlu's All Filipino Restaurant Tirol Cocjin Building, Unka 2, Pavia, 5001, Iloilo 0917 501 3785 Hidden beneath the lush jungle of Palawan lies one of the most extraordinary natural wonders in the world: the Puerto Princesa Underground River. Stretching for about 8 kilometers, this subterranean section of the Cabayugan River winds its way through a vast limestone cave system, where time seems to stand still and nature displays its artistry in breathtaking form. Visitors who embark on the boat journey into the heart of this dark, silent world are met with awe-inspiring sights. The river splits into two tiers inside the cave, where waterfalls cascade from the upper level to the main riverbed below—a surreal, almost otherworldly experience lit only by the flickering beam of a headlamp. As you glide deeper into the cave, the ceiling opens up to reveal towering stalactites that resemble gothic cathedral spires, and stalagmites that rise like ancient sentinels from the cave floor. These magnificent formations, sculpted drop by drop over millions of years, create an eerie, majestic ambiance. One of the cave’s most famous chambers—the colossal Italian’s Chamber—spans 360 meters in length and holds an astonishing volume of 2.5 million cubic meters, making it one of the largest cave rooms in the world. A Global Treasure Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park is far more than just a cave. It’s a rare convergence of geological and ecological marvels. The area boasts one of the few intact sea-to-mountain ecosystems in the world, where mangroves, lowland forests, and karst landscapes seamlessly blend into one another. The cave and river system is also home to a number of endemic species—organisms adapted to total darkness that have existed here, unchanged, for centuries. In 2012, the Puerto Princesa Underground River earned a place among the New 7 Wonders of Nature, elevating its global profile and attracting eco-tourists from around the world. When visiting, keep your eyes peeled for the Palawan peacock-pheasant, a stunning, iridescent bird that exists nowhere else on Earth. Its striking plumage and shy demeanor make spotting one a special moment. The Puerto Princesa Underground River is more than a tourist destination—it’s a living, breathing reminder of the planet’s power and mystery. Whether you’re paddling through silent caves, spotting rare wildlife, or just soaking up the sun on an empty beach, this corner of Palawan invites you to slow down and reconnect—with nature, and with yourself. Other Top Things to Do in Puerto Princesa Other than the Underground River, Puerto Princesa has more to offer. Here are a few: 1. Unwind on Palawan’s Hidden Shores Escape to the unspoiled white sands of Sabang, Panaguman, and Marta Fe beaches. Here, time slows down. Swim in crystal-clear waters, sunbathe beneath leaning coconut palms, or simply enjoy the peace and quiet of Palawan’s coastline. 2. Birding and Wildlife Watching Puerto Princesa is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts. Guided tours give visitors the chance to see a dazzling variety of creatures—from colorful parrots and pheasants to mischievous macaques and monitor lizards. The Ethnographic Museum at the park’s visitor center offers a deeper dive into the region’s natural and cultural history. Don’t miss the endangered Philippine cockatoo, a rare sight even for seasoned birdwatchers. 3. Trek into Pristine Forests If hiking is your passion, the trails around the Underground River offer a curated journey through one of Southeast Asia’s most intact tropical forests. These trails take you through different forest formations, each buzzing with life, from insects to giant trees to shy forest dwellers. 4. Get Closer to Nature on a Jungle Hike The well-maintained trails are suitable for both casual walkers and seasoned trekkers. But remember—bring sturdy hiking boots, plenty of water, and insect repellent. The humidity can be intense, but the reward is worth every step. 5. Paddle Through Mangrove Forests Glide silently through thick mangrove tunnels on a guided paddle boat. These calm waters offer a different perspective on the local ecosystem, with crabs, mudskippers, and birds thriving in this aquatic habitat. 6. Explore the Caves Beyond the River For thrill-seekers, adventure caving is a must. Navigate through narrow passages and underground streams by headlamp—an exhilarating way to experience Palawan’s hidden underground world beyond the main tourist trail. 7. Climb for the Best Views Climbers will find challenge and reward at Ugong Rock, where panoramic views await at the summit. More traditional caving adventures can be found at Lions’ Cave, Kawili Cave, and Daylight Hole, each offering a different kind of underground experience. Where to Stay in Puerto Princesa Accommodation options in Puerto Princesa range from high-end resorts with oceanfront views to charming eco-lodges nestled in the jungle. Some visitors prefer staying in the city for convenience, but those looking to fully immerse themselves in the natural beauty often choose to stay in Sabang, a village closer to the Underground River. Here, the jungle is your backyard and the sea is just steps away. Other Places in the Philippines Worth Visiting:
1. The Best of Ilocos Norte, Philippines 2. The Best of Ilocos Sur, Philippines Since we were already in Panama, we figured—why not stretch our trip a little longer and bask in some Caribbean sunshine? So, off we went to Bocas del Toro, a cluster of dreamy islands where the water is impossibly blue, the vibe is effortlessly laid-back, and the wildlife takes “neighbourly” to a new level. Getting There: Planes, Boats, and Golf Carts We hopped on a Flytrip plane to Bocas, which, given its size, felt more like a flying minivan. After a quick (and slightly bumpy) ride, we landed at the small but charming Bocas airport, where our adventure truly began. The Red Frog Beach Resort crew picked us up and shuttled us to a boat because, naturally, cars are overrated when travelling to a tropical paradise. Upon arriving at the resort’s dock, a car whisked us through the lush, jungle-like property to our villa. At this point, we thought we had somehow landed in Costa Rica instead of Panama—but hey, who’s complaining? Villa Life: Privacy, Pools & Personal Space Our two-bedroom villa was the perfect mix of luxury and seclusion. First and foremost, we no longer had to share a room—which, after days of travelling together, felt like a real vacation. The villa came with its private pool, which we used excessively (because, why not?). A spacious kitchen and living room made it feel homey, though the idea of actually cooking while on vacation was quickly abandoned. Getting Around: The Magical Golf Carts Red Frog Beach Resort sprawls across 600 hectares, but fear not—there’s always a golf cart ready to whisk you away to the beach, grocery store, or restaurant. If you’re extra friendly (or just chatty), the driver might even take a detour to show you where the resident sloths hang out or help you spot the resort’s famous red poison dart frogs. Yep, tiny red frogs, just hopping around like they own the place. Beaches: Private Paradise vs. Public Party The resort’s beach is private, meaning no random sunbathers photobombing your vacation pics. But if you’re in the mood for a livelier scene, the golf cart can drop you at the public beach in the next resort. Be warned, though—seats and huts are on a first-come, first-served basis, so claim your spot early unless you enjoy the thrill of competing with fellow sun-seekers. The two restaurants there are also popular, so you might end up sharing a table with strangers—who may or may not become your new vacation besties. Food: Pizza & Beyond The resort restaurant? Pretty solid. Their pizza? Even better. But for those craving variety, the resort offers boat trips into town, where you can sample other dining options. We skipped the boat trip to town this time but checked out Bocas Town before returning to Panama City. It’s a classic Caribbean resort town with colourful restaurants and quirky little shops. We liked it so much that we’ve already decided we need a more extended visit next time. Final Thoughts
Bocas del Toro was a tropical dream with sloths, golf carts, and private pools. It’s where time slows down, and the hardest decision of the day is whether to lounge by the beach or take a dip in your villa’s pool. We’re already planning our return—maybe for longer, maybe with even more pizza. Other Exciting Places to Explore: Our Panamanian pit stop started early on a still wintery morning in Toronto. My travel partner and I took a Copa Airlines flight from Lester Pearson at 9 AM, and by 2:30 PM, we were in Panama—just in time to shake off the last traces of Canadian winter. Not bad at all. Even better? Copa actually fed us. A real meal. On a plane. In 2025. Miracles do happen. As someone in my seventies, I always assess a new place through the lens of “Would this be a good spot to age gracefully?” A friend of mine already made the leap, securing his Panamanian residence card after a year of paperwork. Meanwhile, he’s been basking in the sun while the rest of Canada shovels snow off their driveways. Not a bad trade-off. Flipping through Copa Airlines’ in-flight magazine, I realized Panama is a prime launching pad for adventures all over Central and South America. Europe and North America are also easily accessible, so you never have to feel stuck. In fact, our stop in Panama was a free bonus on our way to Colombia—an offer too tempting to refuse. Old-World Charm in Panama City Arriving in the city, we went straight to a hotel owned by friends of my travel companion, located in the historic Casco Viejo district. It’s the kind of neighborhood where you can wander aimlessly and feel like you’re in a movie—cobblestone streets, colonial buildings, and a vibrant mix of old and new. After freshening up, we strolled around in search of a good meal. We stumbled upon La Compañia, a restaurant and rooftop bar promising spectacular sunset views and—most importantly—happy hour. An easy sell. A footman (yes, a real footman, not just some guy in a uniform) guided us to the elevator, where we marveled at walls covered in old nautical instruments, making us feel like we were about to set sail for the New World. The view was so stunning that we decided to stick around for dinner. The complex housed four restaurants—French, Italian, Spanish, and American (with Peruvian and Mexican influences). We opted for Spanish and dined at El Sanctuario, where I ordered paella. Now, I’ve been to Spain several times, so I consider myself somewhat of a paella connoisseur. Verdict? One of the tastiest I’ve had outside of Spain. The next day, we returned for lunch at the Italian spot. The arancini? Perfection. The thinly sliced salami? A flavor bomb. The focaccia? So good we ordered a whole loaf to take home. But the biggest surprise was the pulpo—paper-thin octopus paired with arugula, a dish I never knew I needed in my life. Appetizer Board, Panama. Copyright: aesta1 Afternoon Happy Hour & Canal Dreams Oh, and how could I forget our first happy hour in Panama? Fresh off the plane, slightly jet-lagged but thirsty, we found a bar and ordered an appetizer board loaded with ceviche, croquetas, plantains, and the star of the show--chicharrón with just the right amount of crispy fat. Because let’s be honest, fat is where the flavor lives. Of course, no trip to Panama is complete without visiting the canal. And yes, the next day, we joined the ranks of curious tourists ticking off that bucket list item. But that’s a story for another day. Sometimes, embarking on a quest for the perfect gathering spot can feel like searching for the Holy Grail—minus the armour and quests through treacherous lands. On that fateful day, three brave souls (us) piled into a compact car that seemed to defy all laws of physics on a mission: to find a New Year's gathering place for our class. Picture us like a modern-day Trio of Destiny—no sword fights, just school spirit. Our first clue came from a barangay official—who also happened to be the wildest of our former classmates—as she regaled us with tales of a resort she discovered on Facebook. Intrigued yet slightly skeptical (because, let's be honest, some Facebook posts can be as reliable as a cat wearing a backpack), we decided to give Cora Vergel Resort a whirl. Timing is everything, and let me tell you, hunger is an understatement upon our arrival. The entrance fee on weekdays? Consumable! A genius marketing strategy that has us feeling like we're buying our way into a buffet instead of a resort. We registered, with dreams of feasting dancing in our heads, and made our way to the cafeteria—which, let our taste buds be known, was not a fine dining establishment but more of a cozy nook of breakfast delights. Since breakfast was the only meal served during the week, we entered a culinary wonderland where even a gourmet connoisseur would declare: "Sure, I'll eat that!" While waiting for the rice to cook (what is this, a suspense thriller?), we roamed around snapping pictures like we were on a tourist mission to make our classmates drool with envy. As the aroma of fried goodness wafted through the air, our potato chips arrived, and let's say they did not stand a chance. They vanished faster than you could say "tapsilog." And when the "tapsilog" finally made its grand entrance—cured meat and eggs happily cohabiting—it was like a culinary concert where we were the most enthusiastic audience ever. Fueled with fries and food for thought, we gathered intel to report back to the rest of our classmates, because who doesn't want to be the insider on the latest resort gossip? In an adventurous spirit, we ventured out to three other resorts in different towns. Each stop was like checking off items on our resort wish list, but Cora Vergel stole our hearts with its charm, diverse activities, and options tailor-made for our collective shenanigans. Now, let's talk about the weather—it rained that morning. But did we let a little liquid sunshine dampen our spirits? Absolutely not!
Armed with three modes of transportation (and a plethora of snacks that could rival a small grocery store), we arrived, ready to feast like there was no tomorrow. Laughter bounced off the walls as we feasted on our packed delights, turning the café into a makeshift banquet hall. With the rain still falling outside, we opted for the classic fun: hanging out and talking, interspersed with a spontaneous karaoke session. Nothing breaks the ice like heartfelt renditions of "Sad Movies" followed by an ecstatic dance-off. I mean, even our octogenarian friends jumped in on the action—showing us that age is but a number, especially when there's cha-cha and limbo rock on the menu. Eventually, some of us dove into the newly opened swimming pool while others remained behind, reveling in the harmonious chaos of karaoke. If you think swimming is just about splashing around, think again—it turned into a nostalgia fest where we floated and reminisced, making memories that would last longer than our sunburns. When the lunch bell rang (okay, it was more of a regular notification, but let's keep the drama alive), we feasted on what could only be described as legendary: chicken "binakol", chicken lechon, seafood paella, "sotanghon, and bihon". The rice was plentiful, like confetti at a parade, because who does not understand that rice is as essential to a Filipino meal as TikTok is to procrastination? After lunch, we circled back to the other swimming pool near our karaoke group. The resort had not one, but two sizable pools, and the amenities were sparkling clean—truly a mark of a new and proud establishment. As the day wound down, nobody seemed eager to leave—because why would we? We were having the time of our lives! Cora Vergel may be an inland resort, but it surely delivered happiness comparable to the best of beachfront outings. Here's to friendship, food, and a resort that turned out to be the perfect host for our laughter-filled reunion! Bucari is unique in many ways. Tucked away in the lush mountains of Leon, Iloilo, It offers a refreshing escape from the heat of the city and its surrounding towns. Perched at over 1200 meters above sea level, Bucari has a temperature that often drops to 15 degrees centigrade, a rarity in a tropical country. Approaching Bucari, you can feel the coolness in the air. Its rolling hills and verdant pine forests embrace you. Then, its terraced vegetable gardens greet you with strawberries, cabbages, carrots, lettuce, and celery. Often covered with misty clouds, this panorama is a feast for weary eyes. Hidden within the forest are some of Bucari's most picturesque waterfalls, such as Imoy Falls and Camandag Falls. These cascades, with their crystal-clear waters flowing from the highlands, are perfect spots for relaxation and a refreshing dip. The falls are easily accessible through short hikes, offering a rewarding experience for those who love outdoor adventures. For hikers, campers, and bikers, Bucari is a paradise. The area is home to various trails, ranging from easy walks to challenging treks that reward you with incredible vistas and close encounters with nature. Camping in Bucari also a popular camping destination. With designated campsites nestled amidst the pines, it offers an unparalleled stargazing experience in the cool mountain air. For the more adventurous, you can climb the peaks of Mansiga and Tabionan to witness spectacular sunrises or sunsets that stretch over the vast, undulating landscapes. The locals have embraced ecotourism, and many campsites and homestays offer simple but comfortable accommodations. For a more adventurous experience, you can set up a tent and sleep under the stars, with the forest lulling you to sleep. Bucari's winding, uphill roads also present a challenging but scenic route for cyclists. Mountain biking has become a favourite activity for many tourists, especially those looking for a thrilling yet peaceful ride through nature. While Bucari's natural beauty draws people in, its local community gives the place its heart. The people of Bucari, mainly farmers and artisans, are known for their warmth and hospitality. Many visitors have shared stories of being welcomed into homes, offered fresh produce, and guided through the hidden corners of Bucari by locals passionate about sharing their hometown's beauty. I had my own experience of this. When we were going to the strawberry farm, a farmer met us on the way. He was tending to his celery and chayote seedlings, piqued my interest. I wanted to buy some of these seedlings while my companions went straight for the strawberries. He readily shared his knowledge with me on how to take care of these plants and added free seedlings to what I bought, choosing the best of what he had. At that moment, I knew I would go back just to talk to this avid and experienced gardener. Of course, we purchased strawberries and cold-climate vegetables from the stalls in the center. We found a very nice restaurant by the roadside with a spectacular view, so we seated ourselves at the table but were told the cook had not yet arrived. We waited for a while, but hunger made us decide to keep going. We found another one frequented by regular travellers, and food was readily available. The food was tasty in its simplicity and very cheap. Having satisfied our hunger, we visited the town market of Leon. Farmers delivered huge baskets of vegetables there, and middlemen from the city purchased those produce in bulk and brought them to sell to the city merchants. We purchased some as well.
Having visited Bucari, I now understand why people from the city purchased properties there. It's a tranquil place to be refreshing both body and spirit. Local markets attract me to no end. Exploring them gives me plenty of satisfaction. Our favourite is the Friday Market in the town of Santa Barbara, about 20 minutes away from us. I love to go when it is the market day for that town, as many vendors from different provinces and towns in the island of Panay go there to sell their produce. Thus, there are a variety of choices that ensure you buy quality products. Last Friday, we went to a town next to us as it was their market day. It's busy, but this adds immensely to the fun. I went with my sister and niece; we had reasons for being there, so we decided to separate ways and meet at a designated place and time. My sister came with me because I'm unfamiliar with the market.First, we went to the fish section, and as we entered the area, my sister's former student greeted her. He is now a fish vendor. The fish are all fresh. There are many to choose from, including blue marlin. The price is reasonable compared to what we get in our town. My sister and I saw the tiny fish that we used to eat as children. You can eat the whole fish when stewed in a clay pot, in garlic and ginger, and wrapped in banana leaf. It brought memories of the smell when our aunt would cook it. Of course, we got some. The day before, we went to a pottery place and got the perfect cooking pot, so we got very excited. We went next to the meat place. My sisters have a place she constantly goes to; they already know her. Such a place is what we call suki in our local dialect. Suki means someone who buys regularly from the seller. From there, we looked for mung bean sprouts to go with the dish we planned that day. We went around not so much to buy as we grow plenty on the farm but to check the prices and availability of produce. We did our market research. Then, off to the dried fish section. We love eating some, especially for breakfast. Then we traced our way back to where we said we would meet each other and saw some plants for sale. They have beautiful herbs: spearmint and peppermint. Rosemary, basil. And Tarragon. I got some, and my niece did the same. What's funny is I got three and paid 300. I found it cheap, 100 pesos each. On the other hand, my niece bargained for three for only 200. I smiled as I was content with my purchase. Two days before, I bought the same plant for 250 each in the shopping mall. We had so much fun sharing our experiences in the car. The market was busy. It was crowded, hot, loud, wet, and smelly, but who cares? People are friendly, so no shouting in anger, only voices selling their ware. We had so much fun. We shared memories of when we were children. We remembered the adults in the family going to these markets. We looked forward to their coming home as they always brought us treats, but we did not go. We returned to this Santa Barbara market several times as we always had so much fun. Last time, I found someone selling spices, and I told my nieces about it as we always looked for some but could not find some exotic ones. My sister suggested we try going to the markets in other towns. I am so game for it.
Unsurprisingly, Iloilo is UNESCO's first Creative City of Gastronomy because of its delicious native food and fabulous restaurants, some of which are hidden in its villages. These are unique eating places that surprise even the most discriminating of tastes. Nozzled in the town of Sta. Barbara, for example, is Munk's Coffee Shop and Resto, an unpretentious eating place that serves quality food unfamiliar in Iloilo province. It is a small place that has been here for five years. Who says restaurants like this won't survive in the small town of Iloilo? Together with my sister and niece, we arrived at the restaurant for lunch. There are diners at the four tables (yes, that's all it has). Two guests kindly offered us the bigger table after finishing their lunch. It looks like they had some form of curry. We seated ourselves and looked around. We saw that they also sell coffee grounds for drip or press. Not only coffee, but they also have homemade sauces and jams made from local produce. We went to the restaurant to try their focaccia bread. If you want to take out the bread, preorder it the day before. We settled for something that we liked on the menu. The coal hamburger caught my attention, so I ordered it. Both my companions ordered pasta dishes. They have curries, salads, and Danish meatballs, which we will order next time. Peter Munk married Lynette, a lady from this town. After work stints as chefs in Denmark, Japan, Poland, and Bulgaria, they decided to open a restaurant in the town of Sta Barbara Iloilo. Peter has prepared food for Denmark's royal family during their birthdays and anniversaries. The couple chose to locate in the Liz complex in Sta Barbara in 2018. They chose Peter's middle name, Munk, to develop Munk's Coffee Shop and Resto. They aim to wean Ilonggos from their super sweet taste, so their bread uses only a bit of cane sugar, and they don't serve rice dishes here. Their bread is all homemade, and they make most of the products they use, like jams and sauces. If you're in a hurry, you can call them to preorder. Order some takeout and try these at home, but it's no substitute for eating it right there as soon as they finish preparing it.
I look forward to trying their other dishes and products. We only bought the coffee that they sourced from a secret place in Bacolod, located on the neighboring island of Negros Occidental. When Peter and his wife tasted this coffee in 1987, they decided that they would only serve it when they opened their restaurant. This coffee is of the Robusta beans harvested near the mountains of Bacolod. For them, this may be the best coffee in the world. At home, I also use Canlaon Coffee from Negros Occidental, close to the volcano, and this is the only coffee I drink when I am in the Philippines. They may get it from a different place, but I love my coffee every morning. I will have to try out the Bacolod Coffee. Check out Munk's site to preorder your bread: https://munksresto.com Liz Complex, Bangga Dama, Santa Barbara, 5002, Iloilo Tel.: (033) 335 362 A day trip to Dafalongs in San Dionisio is exhilarating, especially for plant lovers. The first time I visited this place, I was with my three sisters, who are all Seniors. The second time, I was with my former classmates, all in our 70s, and a younger niece of one of us, who was our driver. Thankfully, she loves plants, so she enjoyed the visit immensely. On both occasions, we left early so as not to encounter the intense sun at midday. The first time we went, we left at 4 am to have breakfast at the Dafalongs' restaurant. It's open, and you look out into the green rice fields, a relaxing view as you enjoy your meal. You might wonder about this destination's name. The name came from the flat noses of the owners. In the native language, Ilonggo, nose means "ilong," and flat referring to noses is "dapa," so the owners have "dapa ilongs", flat noses. That's where the name Dafalongs came from. San Dionisio is 110 km north of the city of Iloilo. It takes about 2 hours and 25 minutes to reach the place. We went straight to Dafalongs, but coming back, we passed by Sara and Barotac Nuevo, two towns we identified as enjoyable for that day trip. There are other towns on the way that are also worth visiting, but we focused on these two. Dafalongs is on the national highway in Barangay Bagacay in San Dionisio, so it is easy to find. If you doubt you're on the right way, you can always ask people on the streets. The roads were good, so the trip was far from exhausting. We arrived at Dafalongs and immediately sat at the restaurant, ready for a midday meal. Some dishes stood out on the menu because of the local spices they used, which families no longer use regularly. For me, it brought me back to the taste of my childhood. Dafalongs open at 7 am, so you can come early and enjoy its various breakfast offerings. But Dafalongs' primary attraction is not its restaurant; though the food is delicious, it has a magnificently landscaped garden. With many priceless plants arranged to make visitors stroll in a park, Dafalongs engaged us no end as we looked at the rare collection. There are ponds with flowering lotus in various colors. There are new additions to Dafalongs, something whimsical and symbols of Christmas. There's a giant Christmas tree close to the entrance. Santa is also right in the midst of the garden. In addition, there is a whimsical, fun sculpture that will make you smile. You can look at the images below. Mary Ann Cogollo, a former teacher, started this project. She loves plants, which started as a child when she helped her mother with her orchid collection. She stopped teaching and concentrated on gardening, resulting in a vast array of rare plants in Dafalongs and a landscaping business. Today, she helps many, especially women, mostly the farmers' wives who till her family's rice and sugar cane farms.
On our way home, we passed by Ina Farm, a Kubota training center/resort in Barotac Nuevo that Mary Ann had landscaped. In this town, we also enjoyed bowls of oysters selling for just 60 pesos a bowl or U$1.20. We also passed by another town, Sara, where we purchased cheese rolls and ensaymadas at Think About Cakes Bakery. It is worth the stop. A trip to Dafalongs is very engaging. Good food, relaxing scenery, and a spectacular collection of rare plants make for a satisfying wander. Amoma means in Hiligaynon, the Iloilo language, hospitality, special caring for guests which include giving them food, accommodation and care. This restaurant has become a recent favourite for those who love to eat out. The setting invites guests to commune with nature as the sound of dripping water from the pond offers a zen-like experience. The ambiance alone invites me to go there. The food is not a significant draw, as I can get more tasty versions in other restaurants, but the juices are made creatively from healthy produce from the garden, and this alone draws me and my family and friends. As you go in, it's like coming to a farm. As you enter, you can pick a ripe banana from hanging bunches, a unique welcome this restaurant offers. We love sitting outside and enjoying the breeze. The tables come from old fallen trees, and you can see the tree's growth marks clearly. It's like sitting in your garden, listening to the water flow and watching the varied colored Kois enjoy themselves. We had the blue ternate, cucumber, and ginger juices for lunch. With the juices, we ordered Binakol, a chicken dish cooked with the flesh of the young coconut, grilled lapu-lapu, shrimp ceviche, and rice. They cooked the shrimp heads and served these, too. To start, we had the sweet potato Nachos. I like the purple sweet potato but I hesitated to eat mayonnaise in a hot climate. Still, I enjoyed it and my stomach did not react. There's ample parking in front of the restaurant, and the service is fast and excellent. The servers are pleasant. Dining in Amoma is an outstanding experience. Try it.
Once, I had a friend, a traveler named Tim. Tim had a big problem. No, it wasn't dragons, evil stepmothers, or even losing his luggage (although that was always a bummer). Tim's problem was that he wanted to see the world, but he also wanted to save the planet. Sounds easy. No, it wasn't. You see, Tim was on a quest for eco-friendly travel options. He wasn't your average eco-warrior, though. He didn't carry around a "Save the Whales" banner or hug trees while serenading them with folk songs. Tim was more of a "Save the Planet, But Make It Fun" guy. So, picture this: Tim, armed with a reusable water bottle and a backpack full of socks that had seen better days, embarked on his adventure. His first stop? The land of public transportation, where buses, trams, and trains reigned supreme. But Tim quickly realized that navigating the labyrinth of schedules and ticket machines was like deciphering alien hieroglyphs. The resulting misadventures and missed connections became the stuff of eco-comedic legends. Undeterred, Tim hopped onto the next chapter of his journey: cycling. He was confident that he could be an eco-hero on two wheels. Yet, he soon discovered that mastering the art of pedalling without looking like Bambi on ice had its share of comedy. His wobbly exploits on a bicycle had audiences in tears – from laughter. Walking came next, but it wasn't a walk in the park. Tim embarked on a quest to find the world's most eco-friendly shoes. He was in Bangkok then, so he bought locally produced shoes. Proud of his local purchase, Tim plodded the streets but soon felt that his socks were getting wet because it was raining. When he lifted his shoes, the soles were gone. Carpooling turned out to be the plot twist Tim needed. On his trip from Bangkok to Phuket, he met an eclectic group of fellow eco-travelers with stories that could shame the wildest road-trip movies. Tim's carpooling escapades were nothing short of side-splitting, from karaoke duets to epic snack battles. As Tim continued his journey, he explored eco-friendly accommodations, responsible tourism, and offsetting carbon emissions, each adventure with its share of humorous hiccups and heartwarming moments. Saving the planet doesn't have to be a dull, tree-hugging endeavor. Let's be like Tim, a traveler who's not afraid to laugh in the face of eco-challenges. Today, we have gone further in our awareness of what to do to make our travel more eco-friendly. Consider some of these:
Written by Sr. Sylvia Jopillo, r.a. Some 500+ kilometers from Madrid tucked on the upper apron of the mountains rimming the Lago de Sanabria in the province of Zamora is the Monasterio de San Martin de Castañeda. This 12th-century monastery continues to stand among the hills and fields of the tiny town of Ribadelago. It is still known as the Monasterio de Santa Maria, although it currently houses its patron saint's parish church, San Martin de Castañeda. The church benefited from the cultural reconstruction efforts supported by the government. Constructed by the Cistercian monks in the 12th century, on the outside, the present church exterior was recently renovated but maintained its imposing belfry and giant bells. As in the olden times, one enters the monastery through an ancient gate. With the long-gone Cistercian monks, the monastery maintains its Romanic architecture, with its dark and cool interiors and retablos or side altars flanked by massive stone pillars. The domes with their designs and the solid stone baptismal font dominating the side altar lead the eyes to the main retablo, with the antique wooden polychrome statue of San Martin de Castañeda mounted on a horse. The church layout is in the form of the cross, with its side altars forming arches. The church became the center of the town's farming and fishing activities. What is striking is the play of light and shadows in the church interiors—the rays pouring from its high windows into the dark interior trigger a sense of transcendence in me. How light and shadows can inhabit the same space, and how clear the boundary where they melt into each other like a liminal space hit me. This sense of living with contrast showed during a catastrophe in Ribadelago in 1959 when the Vega de Tera dam's retaining wall collapsed. The rushing waters left little time for the Ribadelago's inhabitants to escape. Reports showed that 144 (out of 532 inhabitants) went missing, and help came late due to the distance and poor road network connecting Ribadelago from the provincial center. The tragedy mobilized a nationwide effort to help the victims' families and the town. At the site where most of the victims lived stands a mother and child statue to honor those lost to the flood. The surrounding mountains still bear marks by the cascading torrents of water from its summit and into the settlement. I can sense the spiritual force of the beauty of Ribadelago with its lake and ancient church. Its scarred mountainsides and tranquil Rio de Tera. And yet, I can also imagine how the earth shakes with the rumble of the flood waters that swept everything away. Over time, the tiny town continues its simple life as the clearness of each summer day and the cold of winter unfold as part of life's seasons. The shepherds and the cow herders pass through the same trails and narrow roads, the farmers and fishermen harvest chestnuts and trout, and the tourists come with their thirst for rest, beauty, and silence. Everyone goes home with a full heart. Written by Sr. Sylvia Jopillo, r.a. After a leisurely four-hour drive from Madrid, the noise suddenly ceases, and an 8-km winding narrow road opens from the Sanabria town in the province of Zamora into the mountains. Snaking through a secondary forest of white birches, willow, ash, and yews, along with scrubs carpeted with ferns and moss, glimpses of the serene lake peek through the trees' branches. How quiet everything is! The Lago de Sanabria is a glacial lake fed by the river Tera. Forming part of a vast 22,365 hectares of natural park with its mountain ranges and forest, the lake appears like a tortoise jewel in the heart of the park. It covers 3.48 square kilometers spanning 3.3 km long and 1.47 km wide. Its deepest part is at 51 meters which is suitable for boating and fishing. The water is incredibly clear in summer, with gentle breezes occasionally rippling through its surface. The tranquility of the lake is soothing, and I leave behind the noise and summer heat of Madrid! The lake view is a visual feast that compensates for the long drive from the city. The small town ambiance with its slate-roofed houses and cows browsing on the scrubs completes the quiet that pulls me to contemplate the holy hocks blooming on a doorway and the flowering chestnut trees carpeting the grounds with their dry blooms. Driving along the lake's perimeter into the Ribadelago town provides another refreshing stop. There is a beach to bathe in and enjoy the warm lake water! Families come and spend vacations staying in rented quaint rural houses a walking distance from the beach. One can pitch a day tent and enjoy bathing and sunning. Ribadelago is so tiny but with a combination of wonderful amenities. An accessible sand beach, precious lake views, a jetty for those who wish to swim in deep water, and boating facilities. Even with family vacationers enjoying the beach, the place strikes me as quiet and uncrowded. It has a few café bars, a simple hostal, and a restaurant with an ample Terraza! I love my lunch of Caldo Gallego, a soup with grelos (a vegetable eaten only stewed), pork bits and chorizos, and a whole grilled trout with a side of lettuce and tomatoes! Lunch is complete with the local Tinto chilled to perfection and ice cream cake for dessert. What is impressive is the enormous servings of everything! Families on vacation frequent the Terrazas and café bars for breakfast and lunch and order bocadillos de jamón for their beach outing. Relaxing 2 to 3 days on the lake is ideal, but my day trip pays me a considerable dividend. The tranquility of the lake reflecting the blue sky on a clear day makes me feel an inner joy that time stands still, and I can see forever, so I'm coming back for a more extended stay. Where is Lago de Sanarias?
I am in Spain now. To be more specific, Madrid. I had been to Spain so many times but only stayed in Madrid for a day or overnight. I decided to stay in the city longer and know it this time. Coming from the Philippines, Spain has a unique role in our history and culture, so it is worth exploring. To prepare, I augmented my knowledge of Spanish (24 units in university) by learning the language online to get by when I got here quickly. This learning turned out to be very useful. I can say that my experience of traveling to Spain during a pandemic was not stressful at all. I filled out the Health Visa form online, which was all I needed when I got to the airport. All the information they needed was there, and after submitting the form online, they sent you a QR code which you print and bring with you. I traveled a few days before the Omicron variant surfaced. At that time, Canadians who were doubly vaccinated need not have a test to enter Spain. I did take the test just in case the airline or any other authority asked for the negative test result at transit. I lost a piece of luggage. Losing a piece of luggage was not the first time for me, so I immediately went to the Lost Luggage counter to fill up the form. The next day, the airline delivered my luggage. Now, I am in my new neighborhood of Santa Engracia. Ponzano Street, where people eat in its array of restaurants, is very close, an effortless walk to my delight. So, my first afternoon, a friend joined me in a cheese and wine in one of the restaurants. This morning, I walked around the neighborhood to familiarize myself with the area. I had discovered the closest grocery store, and it has everything. I ventured out to look for anything to make my place comfortable and relaxing, and I found a flower shop where I saw some orchids. It says it's open, but the door was closed. Seeing my hesitation, a lady came to open the door and pointed to me the door chime that I did not see. I went in and saw there were several orchids. With my limited Spanish, I arrived at my choice and even a vase to hold it. The lady prepared it and called me where she was working. We introduced ourselves, and before I knew it, she offered me a bunch of lavender and a few flowers, which she said I could put in my bathroom. I was surprised to get all these freebies.
I went home satisfied with my purchase. Watch out for more of my adventure here in sunny Spain. |
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