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In Search of the Cecina de León

by Sylvia Jopillo, r.a.
​There is no lack of incredible gastronomy in Spain. This country offers surprising treats in food and drinks. In all its incarnations, the glorious jamón (or ham) is found all over the country, and there is something more than the Jamón Serrano or Iberico to entice the palate. 
Avenida de Mariano Andres, Leon
A ubiquitous street anywhere in León (but known as the Avenida de Mariano Andrés. Copyright: s. jopillo
Found in León, the province's capital with the same name is a variety of ham known as Cecina. Made from the hind legs of beef (although there is also Cecina de Chivo made from goat's meat), the Cecina of León has a protected designation of origin (PGI) that recognizes its uniqueness and value in Spanish gastronomy. ​
Intrigued by the Cecina, I took a bus to León, 3 hours away from Madrid. And like Alice in Wonderland, I tracked down the Cecina in León's ordinary city streets and not in its famous gourmet shops and restaurant rows. 
The Avenida de Mariano Andrés is a ubiquitous road leading to the city center with its narrow streets shaded by trimmed trees and brick buildings housing families and business establishments.

It has two parish churches within 300 meters, meat shops every 20 meters, bakeries, and fruit shops at close intervals! Of course, café bars and Terrazas dotted the avenue where the locals meet for breakfast or drinks with friends and neighbors.
While searching the road, I spotted the Carniceria Isidro, attracted by its glass windows. The meat shop is spotless, with bottled spices, cheeses, preserved anchovies, a variety of sausages, and hams hanging from the rafter. Señor Isidro, the owner, is garbed in an apron and manning the counter.
Carniceria San Isidro, Leon
Goodies in the Carniceria Isidro. Copyright: s. jopillo
I asked for Cecina, and the proprietor pulled out a massive chunk of dark dried meat, different from the usual jamón Serrano or Iberico! He sliced two thin pieces when I asked to buy some to taste. The Cecina smells sweet and has a brilliant dark color, similar to the Bresaola in Northern Italy. 

Cecina de León
Cecina de León. Copyright: s. jopillo
As I questioned him about the Cecina, he asked to be excused and returned with two glasses of cold beers, crusty bread, and patatas bravas from the nearby café bar. Setting the drinks and bread on the tiny table inside the shop, he sat down to answer all my questions!

I nibbled on my Cecina and found it surprisingly not salty with a pleasant smoky taste and exquisitely sweet. It goes so well on a slice of crusty bread or eaten alone!
A plate of Cecina with beer
A plate of Cecina with beer. Copyright: s. jopillo, r.a.
Señor Isidro belongs to a family of Leónesa farmers. They engaged in making Cecina and other embutidos (cold meats) using various meats from their livestock. He learned the trade from his grandparents and inherited the meat shop from his father. 
To prepare the Cecina, they splashed with water the fresh hind leg of beef, hanged to dry, then copiously salted and left to cure for a month.

After this, they rewashed it to remove the excess salt crust and then wood-smoked it in a smokehouse for another month. This process cooks the ham, develops its smoky flavor, and aids in preserving the meat. The ham is now ready for curing and storing in a sealed smokehouse.

​This process lasts 8 to 10 months before Cecina is ready for the table.

Cecina de León
Cecina de León. Copyright: s. jopillo, r.a.
The process is long, tedious, and done by age-old artisanal methods! But like all good things, time and effort make it great.

I found the Cecina de León deliciously unforgettable and Señor Isidro so generous and hospitable. No wonder the Cecina de León was more than a trip. It was a profoundly satisfying human experience!
Other Posts on Spain Worth Visiting:
  • Top Food to Enjoy in Spain
  • From Royal Stables to a Majestic Garden: Jardines de Sabatini
  • An Afternoon in El Parque del Oeste Madrid
  • Puertas de Alcalá and Toledo: Time Travels in Madrid
  • La Feria del Libro de Madrid 2022 and the Cat Who Saved Books
  • GoGlobalToday
    • About Us
    • Privacy Policy
  • Global Destinations
    • 13 Tips in Choosing Unique Vacation Destinations
    • Southeast Asia >
      • Tips for a Meaningful Travel to Vietnam >
        • 13 Interesting Places Not to Miss in Vietnam
        • 11 Fabulous Things to Buy in Vietnam
        • Hanoi: The Rising Dragon >
          • 14 Interesting Things to Do in Hanoi
          • Discovering Hanoi's Hidden Secrets
          • Where to Shop in Hanoi
          • Pho Sach: Book Street in Hanoi
          • Downtown Park in Hanoi
          • Ta Hien and Ma May: Food Streets in Hanoi
          • Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi
          • Temple of Literature in Hanoi
          • The Citadel in Hanoi
          • Tea at Dinh Co Vu Temple
          • The Street Vendors of Hanoi
          • Where to Eat in Hanoi >
            • Cha Ca La Vong in Hanoi
            • Behind the Green Curtain
            • Mau Dich So 37 Restaurant: A Trip into Hanoi's Past
            • Mau Dich So 37 Restaurant Pictures
          • Hanoi Street Food: A Truly Tasty Experience
          • Vietnamese Women's Museum
          • Museum of Ethnology: A Peek at Vietnam's 54 Ethnic Groups
          • Vietnam Museum of Ethnology Pictures 1 >
            • Vietnam Museum of Ethnology Pictures
          • Vietnam Military History Museum in Hanoi >
            • More Pictures of Vietnam Military History Museum in Hanoi
          • Fine Arts Museum of Vietnam
          • One Pillar Pagoda
          • Pilgrimage to the Perfume Pagoda
        • Halong Bay, Vietnam
        • Dong Ho: Folk Painting Village in Vietnam
        • Indigo: Saving Vietnam"s Traditional Handicraft
        • Phu Vinh: BambooCraft Village in Vietnam
        • Ho Chi Minh Trail
        • Hue: The Ancient Imperial Capital of Vietnam
        • 9 Ways to Enjoy Hoi An in VietNam
        • My Son: The Centre of Cham Culture
        • Ninh Binh: A Must Do Day Trip from Hanoi
        • TET: Lunar New Year in Hanoi >
          • New Year with Vietnamese Friends
      • Why Visit Cambodia >
        • The Best of Cambodia >
          • The Royal Palace of Cambodia
          • Apsara: Cambodia's Traditional Dance
          • Tonle Sap: Cambodia's Environment Hotspot
          • The Ancient Secrets of Preah Vihear
          • The Water Festival of Cambodia >
            • The Cambodia Water Festival in Pictures
          • Khmer New Year 2016 Pictures
          • Ikat Weaving in Preah Brokorng Cambodia
          • Pich Mkot Temple: An Oasis Outside of Phnom Penh
        • 13 Fabulous Items to Buy in Cambodia
        • Where to Shop in Phnom Penh >
          • The Streets of Phnom Penh
          • 6 Most Popular Traditional Markets in Phnom Penh Cambodia
        • Siem Reap, Cambodia: Things to Do Other than Visiting the Temples of Angkor >
          • Ta Prohm Temple
          • Angkor Temples in Cambodia
          • Beng Mealea: Cambodia's Jungle Temple
          • Traditional Silk Making in Angkor
        • Cool Things to Do in Mondulkiri Cambodia
        • Things to Know Before Visiting Ratanakiri in Cambodia
        • 10 Fascinating Places to Visit in Takeo, Cambodia >
          • Tonle Bati: Scenic Lake in Cambodia
        • The Unique Taste of Cambodia
        • Cambodia: A Unique Adventure
      • 11 Top Must Do in Myanmar
      • Singapore: The Chameleon of Asia
      • Cool Things to do in Luang Prabang Laos
      • The Mighty Mekong
      • Cruising the Chao Phraya
      • Puerto Princesa, Palawan
      • The Best of Ilocos Norte, Philippines
      • The Best of Ilocos Sur, Philippines
    • Europe >
      • Why Visit Spain >
        • Top Places to Visit in Spain
        • Top Food to Enjoy in Spain
        • In Search of the Cecina de León
        • Sweet Indulgences in León: Mantecadas, Nicanores, and Rosquillos
        • La Feria del Libro de Madrid 2022 and The Cat Who Saved Books
        • From royal stables to a majestic garden: Jardines de Sabatini
        • An Afternoon in El Parque del Oeste Madrid
        • Puertas de Alcalá and Toledo: Time travels in Madrid
        • A Walk in Loyola
        • The Castle Against Navarra's Sky
        • The Sta.Clara Island Lighthouse in San Sebastian, Spain
        • San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and its magic
        • The Blacksmith of Talavera
        • Toledo Spain: 10 Points of Interest
        • The Alhambra in Granada Spain
        • The Holy Mountain of Montserrat
        • Olympic Park iBarcelona
        • Joan Miro Museum in Barcelona
        • Trujillo: Cradle of the Conquistadors
        • Why Visit Badajoz Spain
      • Best Cities to Visit in Portugal >
        • 8 Interesting Neighbourhoods of Lisbon
        • Top 11 Points of Interest in Porto Portugal
        • Elvas: Portugal's Garrison Town
        • Bussaco: A Palace and a Historic Battle
        • Obidos: Treasure of the Queens
        • The Shrine of Fatima
        • Convent of Christ and Castle of the Templars in Tomar, Portugal
      • 10 Best Places to Visit in Croatia >
        • 10 Top Things to Do in Dubrovnik
        • The Palace of Diocletian in Split
        • Salona: The Ancient Capital of Dalmatia
        • 8 Best Places to Visit in Istria, Croatia
      • Fun Things to Do in a Day in Kotor Montenegro
      • Why is Italy a Premier Destination? >
        • Cool Things to Do in Venice
        • Erice, Sicily
        • Assissi: A Visit to the Franciscan Roots
        • The Ancient Roman Port of Ostia Antica
        • Pompeii: A World Frozen in Time
      • Perouges: The Medieval Village in France
      • Avenches: The Ancient Roman Capital in Switzerland
      • Gruyere: A Postcard Pretty Medieval Town in Switzerland
    • South Africa >
      • Franschhoek: The French Corner in South Africa
      • Cape Agulhas: The Southernmost Point of Africa
      • Tulbagh: A Less Obvious Destination in the Western Cape
      • The Penguins of Boulder Beach
      • Mandela, Yet Another Reason to Visit South Africa
      • The Swallow: A Tale of the Great Trek
    • Canada >
      • A Fall Visit to the McMichael Museum
      • Port Carling: The Hub of Muskoka
      • Muskoka: Quintessentially Canadian
      • Autumn in Muskoka
      • The Historic Town of Huntsville Ontario
      • Georgian Bay: Paradise of 30,000 Islands
    • South Asia >
      • Sri Lanka: Garden of the Gods
      • Boudanath
      • Thangka Painting
      • The Durbar Square of Kathmandu
    • Other Destinations >
      • Top Holiday Destinations for the New Year >
        • San Xavier del Bac Mission
        • St. Anthony's Greek Orthodox Monastery
      • Istanbul >
        • The Fairy Chimneys of Cappadocia
        • Ephesus: The Biblical City of the Aegean
      • The Bund in Shanghai
      • A Fascinating Trip to A Berber Village
  • Global Travel
    • 7 Tips to Make Your Travel More Fun >
      • 8 Ways to Prepare for Airline Travel
      • 5 Tips for a Most Satisfying Travel
      • 10 Great Ways to Upgrade Bucket List Tourism into Technicolor Memories
      • 7 Tips for Foodie Travel
      • 11 Reasons Why You Don't Wait Till You Retire to Travel
      • When A Guided Vacation is Better
      • 15 Tips to Whisk Through Airport Security
      • Travel As A Marinade, Not A Spritzer
      • 8 Tips on How to Make Group Travel Fun
      • 7 Ways to Restore Your Well Being After a Long Flight
      • How to Choose Travel Insurance
      • Road Travel: Top 5 Ways to Engage Kids
      • Solo Travel – Is it For You?
      • Travel: A Unique Experience in Life
      • 10 Best Insights into Travel
      • Stories of Bargaining in Asia
    • What You Bring to Your Travel
    • Rural Tourism and Why You Need to Try It >
      • Top Possibilities of Rural Tourism
      • 7 Benefits of Rural Tourism
    • The Charm of Alleyways
    • 5 Effective Steps to Travel Packing
  • Global Careers
    • The Obsession with Success
    • Fun in Leadership
    • Do You Have a Blueprint for Success? >
      • 8 Steps to Becoming More Persuasive
      • Why Making Conscious Decisions is Key to Personal Development
      • 7 Key Steps to Personal Success
      • 7 Sure Steps to a Successful Career
      • 9 Sure Steps to Your Dream Job
      • What to Do When You Are in a Wrong Career
      • 7 Steps to Build Your Cope with Change Muscles
      • 10 Winning Attitudes for a Successful Career Kick-Start
      • 6 Ways to Make Risk Taking Easier
      • The First Thing You Do When You Find Yourself in a Hole
      • Key Steps to Becoming a Good Mentor
      • 5 Key Steps to Top Performance
      • 7 Sure Steps to Coaching Success
      • 7 Key Benefits of Finding a Career Coach
      • 13 Tips for Effective Training
    • Ever Dreamed of Working in Other Countries? >
      • 10 Steps to a Successful International Assignment
      • 7 Things Successful International Consultants Do
      • 8 Reasons Why International Consultants Fail
      • 10 Challenges to Working Internationally
      • 7 Benefits of Working Internationally
      • 9 Steps to International Consulting Success
    • 11 Steps Towards Successfully Working for Yourself >
      • Why I Work for Myself and Why You Can Too
      • Self Employment: It Ain’t All Roses
    • Global Business >
      • Expanding Your Business into the Global Market
      • Positioning Your Business in the Global Market
      • The Global Market Has Changed-Have You? >
        • Asia Shaping the World Economy
        • Mr. Ka is Asia
        • Tips to Doing Business in Myanmar
        • Entrepreneurship in Asia
      • 9 Steps to Success in the Global Market
      • Bureaucracies: Worldwide Garrottes?
      • Mobile: Today's Global Platform
      • 7 Key Steps to Grow your Small Business >
        • Adding Value in Your Business: The In-Between Step
        • 5 Winning Characteristics of Employees You Keep in your Small Business
        • 8 Steps to Build a Stronger Customer Base
  • Global Lifestyle
    • How Do We Expand our Global Circles and Make them More Inclusive?
    • Too Much Information
    • 9 Ways of Enjoying Being Offline
    • Healthy Eating Is Meant to Be Fun >
      • 7 Simple Steps to Limit Food Waste
      • Why Eat Bitter Melon
      • Urban Foraging
    • 5 Ways of Managing Stress
    • 8 Sign Posts in Finding Your Sense of Purpose
    • The Joy of Feeding Birds
    • 9 Simple Ways of Making Someone Happy
    • What To Do When You're Discouraged
    • 7 Easy Steps to a Happy Life
    • A Fan of Fans
    • The Silence of the Moment
    • The Poaching of Rhino Horns
    • Football Gets its Critical Mass in Southeast Asia >
      • Badminton: The Game of Empire
    • Journey Across Beliefs
    • Managing your Digital Footprint