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        • Elvas: Portugal's Garrison Town
        • Bussaco: A Palace and a Historic Battle
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Elvas: Portugal's Garrison Town


​If you love megaforts, you will love Elvas. The major challenge for Portugal after independence in 1640 was to protect itself from Spain. Both countries are rough and so you're either on the road or your soldiers are hiking up mountains.

​Elvas was Portugal's largest frontier fort on the road from Madrid to Lisbon and it remains one of the great fortresses in Europe.
The Muslim Castle in Elvas
The Muslim Castle in Elvas. Source: aesta1
 Following the steps of the Duke Wellington in his defense of Portugal from Napoleon's armies in Spain was the main purpose of our trip to Portugal and Spain so it was inevitable that we ended up in Elvas.

It's almost next door to Badajoz, the next Spanish border fort and that was one city we had to see so popping over to Elvas was an easy jaunt. It provided a view of fantastic countryside as we drove.
Once there, it became a perfect centre for us to make day trips to small towns around and become much more comfortable with Portuguese history and architecture.
Picture
Elvas Portugal. Source: aesta1
​​Tourist brochures tend to push places that are already famous on the assumption that you can't visit everything but this really cheats you out of the many major marvels that nations have developed over its history and then forgotten in the rush of modern life only to be rediscovered by historians in the modern age. Elvas is the centre of this kind of rediscovery.
Picture
Fortification in Elvas. Source: aesta1
Located in Alentejo, a region known for its wine and savouries, Elvas itself is known for its olives and plums and sampling of these from its many restaurants is quite an experience.

The Girassol was our victim for the night and Mom and Dad were great cooks and superb hosts without blowing Grumpy's budget.
The Alentejo Region
The Alentejo Region of Portugal. Source: aesta1

What to See in Elvas

​Elvas was declared a UNESCO world heritage city on 30 June of 2012. Some of what the city offers are:
  • ​Forts of Santa Luzia and Nossa Senhora da Graça and the Fortlets of São Mamede, São Pedro and São Domingos.
The fortification in Elvas were first started by the Moors in the 8th century and remnants of this are found in  the Castle and the two Muslim Walls.

With the demise of the Moors, there followed a medieval wall called  the Fernandina built of massive stone around 1350. But unhappily, the Wall was viewed as a Home Depot style material supplier for the construction of the massive fortification of 1643.
Portugal was really worried about Spain's aggressive intent and this wall was to be the cork in the Spanish wine bottle. A Dutch Jesuit brought the most modern geometric theory of Europe  to this really rough country and designed a fort to fit. It is a masterpiece. The Spanish gave it a pass. 
Amoreira Aqueduct in Elvas
Amoreira Aqueduct. Source: aesta1
  • Amoreira Aqueduct
This 7 Km long aqueduct supplies the city with water since its completion in 1622.
The Muslim Walls in Elvas
The Muslim Walls in Elvas. Source: aesta1
  • Historic Centre
There are several buildings here of interest including the old Castle and the Muslim Walls, monuments to the Moorish prominence here and the development of Elvas as a garrison town. The military museum is really worth a visit. By the way, if you're interested in the Peninsular Campaign, the British cemetery just outside of town is beautifully maintained and well worth a visit.
Our Lady of the Assumption in Elvas
Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral in Elvas. source: aesta1
  • The Gothic Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption​
It's easy to get a bit tired of churches in smaller Portuguese and Spanish cities as almost every fifth building has a religious importance.

However, Elvas' Our Lady of the Assumption was designed by the Royal architect, Francisco de Arruda, in the Baroque and Manueline style and was completed in 1537. The staff shared of the place willingly that we were charmed.

​It houses a first class Sacred Art Museum which is really worthwhile visiting. With its paintings and sculptures by the second tier artists of the day, it displays some of the most interesting historical pieces of the region. 
Sao Joao Hotel in Elvas
Sao Joao Hotel in Elvas. Source: aesta1

Where to Stay in Elvas

Our hotel, the Sao Joao, had once been a monastery and then during the Peninsular War it was converted to a hospital. However, today, it's a first class place to stay right downtown with easy parking.

You can walk everywhere from here. The room we were given was huge  and the size of the bathroom made us think that perhaps, the head of the monastery set up camp here.

There's a wonderful flowered terrace overlooking a beautiful garden and the nooks and crannies of the hallways are filled with five hundred year of history. 

Famous Elvas Fairs and Festivals

There are several fairs that draw crowds to this city. The most famous are:
  • Feria de Sao Mateus-September 20
  • International Folklore Festival - summer
  • Medieval festival - 1st weekend of July
  • Elvas International Carnival 
And know they don't have the annual Elvas' look alike fair here.

​It would be enormous fun to time your visit with any of these festivals. 
Part of Elvas Fortification
Part of the Elvas Fortification. Source: aesta1

Day Trips from Elvas

​Strategically located for day trips to towns of both Portugal and Spain, from Elvas, we took some lovely drives which brought us to some of the most wonderful medieval villages we have seen in Europe. 
Evora
Evora. Source: aesta1
  • ​​Evora
What was interesting was what welcomed us in this old medieval city. When we arrived, there was a vintage Renault rally which we enjoyed watching after a morning tea at the Posadas.

There is also a museum displaying the collection of a priest. Its quite a collection showing how much richness the Church really have.

Evora managed to miss the great earthquake of 1755 which hammered Lisbon and much of southern Portugal.

As a consequence, the history of the city from the time of the Celts through the Romans, Visigoths, Moors and Christians can all be seen in bits and pieces happily living together, well displayed and well protected. It's small enough to catch everything with a good walk and is very photogenic.

Close by is the tiny village of Almendres where you can be in the midst of mystery: The Cromlech. This is none of the biggest megalithic structures in Europe.
Pousada de Evora
Pousada de Evora Loios. Source: aesta1
  • Evoramente
I had read the recommendations for this town on a number of travel sites. The trip from Elvas to Evoramente was stunning and gave us a feeling of driving back into history.

Your introduction as you enter is that of a small medieval village that really hasn't moved on much in a century or so. The town was closed for the mid-afternoon mega break so we drifted on to the next town to find something to eat. 
Badajoz
Badajoz. Source: aesta1
  • ​​Badajoz
Though it was raining when we arrived in Badajoz, we were able to do what we wanted there.

​The tourist information centre was the best we’d had in this trip. They even gave us posters of some of the battles that took place there.
​We went to the Palace and imagined the battle from there, at least what we could see.
Merida Museum
Merida National Museum of Roman Art. Source: aesta1
​Merida
What a surprise. The town seems to be off the radar when we had done our planning but we kept reading when we were driving and this jumped out of the iPad as the place to see. It has a reputation for tapas but our experience was pretty average.

​The Museum is an architectural gem and because Merida had such a long history of wealthy Roman occupants, the display of mosaics on the walls of the Museum and the massive statues are superb. We will never doubt the wealth of Rome as displayed in its colonies ever again.

Before you go, check out these other articles on Portugal:
  • The Shrine of Fatima
  • Convent of Christ and Castle of the Templars in Tomar, Portugal 
  • ​Bussaco: A Palace and A Historic Battle​​
  • Obidos: Treasure of the Queens
  • ​Lisbon: Portugal's Capital City
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        • In Search of the Cecina de León
        • Sweet Indulgences in León: Mantecadas, Nicanores, and Rosquillos
        • La Feria del Libro de Madrid 2022 and The Cat Who Saved Books
        • From royal stables to a majestic garden: Jardines de Sabatini
        • An Afternoon in El Parque del Oeste Madrid
        • Puertas de Alcalá and Toledo: Time travels in Madrid
        • A Walk in Loyola
        • The Castle Against Navarra's Sky
        • The Sta.Clara Island Lighthouse in San Sebastian, Spain
        • San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and its magic
        • The Blacksmith of Talavera
        • Toledo Spain: 10 Points of Interest
        • The Alhambra in Granada Spain
        • The Holy Mountain of Montserrat
        • Olympic Park iBarcelona
        • Joan Miro Museum in Barcelona
        • Trujillo: Cradle of the Conquistadors
        • Why Visit Badajoz Spain
      • Best Cities to Visit in Portugal >
        • 8 Interesting Neighbourhoods of Lisbon
        • Top 11 Points of Interest in Porto Portugal
        • Elvas: Portugal's Garrison Town
        • Bussaco: A Palace and a Historic Battle
        • Obidos: Treasure of the Queens
        • The Shrine of Fatima
        • Convent of Christ and Castle of the Templars in Tomar, Portugal
      • 10 Best Places to Visit in Croatia >
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        • The Palace of Diocletian in Split
        • Salona: The Ancient Capital of Dalmatia
        • 8 Best Places to Visit in Istria, Croatia
      • Fun Things to Do in a Day in Kotor Montenegro
      • Why is Italy a Premier Destination? >
        • Cool Things to Do in Venice
        • Erice, Sicily
        • Assissi: A Visit to the Franciscan Roots
        • The Ancient Roman Port of Ostia Antica
        • Pompeii: A World Frozen in Time
      • Perouges: The Medieval Village in France
      • Avenches: The Ancient Roman Capital in Switzerland
      • Gruyere: A Postcard Pretty Medieval Town in Switzerland
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      • Cape Agulhas: The Southernmost Point of Africa
      • Tulbagh: A Less Obvious Destination in the Western Cape
      • The Penguins of Boulder Beach
      • Mandela, Yet Another Reason to Visit South Africa
      • The Swallow: A Tale of the Great Trek
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      • A Fall Visit to the McMichael Museum
      • Port Carling: The Hub of Muskoka
      • Muskoka: Quintessentially Canadian
      • Autumn in Muskoka
      • The Historic Town of Huntsville Ontario
      • Georgian Bay: Paradise of 30,000 Islands
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      • Boudanath
      • Thangka Painting
      • The Durbar Square of Kathmandu
    • Other Destinations >
      • Top Holiday Destinations for the New Year >
        • San Xavier del Bac Mission
        • St. Anthony's Greek Orthodox Monastery
      • Istanbul >
        • The Fairy Chimneys of Cappadocia
        • Ephesus: The Biblical City of the Aegean
      • The Bund in Shanghai
      • A Fascinating Trip to A Berber Village
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      • When A Guided Vacation is Better
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      • Travel As A Marinade, Not A Spritzer
      • 8 Tips on How to Make Group Travel Fun
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      • How to Choose Travel Insurance
      • Road Travel: Top 5 Ways to Engage Kids
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      • Travel: A Unique Experience in Life
      • 10 Best Insights into Travel
      • Stories of Bargaining in Asia
    • What You Bring to Your Travel
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