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If you’re searching for an island-hopping destination that still feels untouched, look no further than Concepcion, a quiet cluster of islands off the coast of Iloilo. Here, powdery white beaches, crystal-clear waters, and island after island await—without the crowds that usually come with postcard-perfect destinations. We didn’t discover Concepcion while chasing beaches or sunsets. We found it on a relief trip, navigating broken roads and storm-battered communities after a typhoon. At the time, we didn’t realize that beyond the hardship lay one of the most beautiful—and least visited—island groups in the Philippines. That first trip left a lasting impression. Although we were busy with relief work, we promised ourselves we would return—not to help, but to linger. To swim in the clear waters, snorkel over coral gardens, and feast on freshly caught seafood. So one summer—schools in the Philippines close from March to May—we went back. What we discovered kept us returning again and again. In Concepcion, as in much of the Philippines, summer feels endless. For years it was our secret. Alas, secrets like this rarely stay hidden forever. Where Is Concepcion? Concepcion is a municipality made up of 17 islands, located in the province of Iloilo on the island of Panay, in the central Philippines. It belongs to the same island group as Boracay, yet feels worlds away in pace and atmosphere. Still Pristine, Still Peaceful Despite its beauty, Concepcion remains refreshingly uncrowded. Often, you’ll find yourself island hopping alone—or at most, sharing the sea with one or two other boats. There are no towering hotels or sprawling resorts. Many islands are either uninhabited or home only to caretakers and fishing families who have lived there for generations. Developers have already come knocking with tempting offers, but selling land would mean giving up a way of life. For many families, the decision is far from simple. For now, most accommodations remain small and basic—bamboo cottages, simple rooms, and a few beachside huts.There's a hotel in town and some resorts have cropped up recently. One of the most popular is Cielo del Norte. With a Bohemian ambience and affordable prices, it's very popular with locals and those in the nearby towns. It's always full on weekends and holidays. A typical day in Concepcion can begin early at the fishing port, enjoying breakfast while boats unload the morning catch. From there, you can rent a boat with a local captain, head out to the islands, and even camp on a deserted shore for your own Robinson Crusoe moment. Do note that some islands now charge small entrance fees—usually no more than a dollar—to help with maintenance and conservation. It’s a small price to pay. Concepcion"s tourist department has also taken the management of the island hopping. You need to register with them and the islands you can visit are now limited to four. Instead of haggling with boat owners, the department has fixed the price. Island-Hopping at Its Best
Concepcion is ideal for island hopping because the islands sit close to one another, each with its own character. Some feature dramatic rock formations, others long sandbars or vibrant coral reefs. A few are inhabited, offering opportunities to meet locals who often share stories of life on the islands—and their experiences during Typhoon Yolanda. Today, marine life is noticeably richer thanks to the establishment of a marine park in the area. Several islands remain uninhabited except for caretakers, who may happily cook lunch for you for a small fee. Expect fresh, generous servings of seafood—simple, flavorful, and unforgettable. Not Yet Overrun by Tourists Concepcion has so far escaped mass tourism. Large tour operators have not fully packaged the destination, and facilities remain limited, which naturally keeps visitor numbers low. Even many locals from Iloilo have yet to explore the area, though improved roads are slowly changing that. Last night was quite an experience. We try to go and see new restaurants in Iloilo. We always pass by Marlu’s on our way to the city and we planned for quite sometime to go there. Somehow, the plan only materialized last night when my sister’ daughter in law celebrated her birthday. It was just spur of the moment that they added my sister and I to the celebration. We did not expect much. We arrived before the celebrant so we had a chance to have a look and see of the restaurant. Our guardian angels even inspired the owner to start a conversation with us. He gave us stories of how he built the place. He wanted to honor the Tirol family name and give it timeless significance by naming the building Cocjin-Tirol. But over and beyond that he also immortalized the woman who was known to most of us as the super active president of the girl scouts. Jake, the owner of Marlu’s is her son. He told us that recently the girl scouts made him an honorary member. Jake did not stop at naming the building such. He also named several dishes after his beloved mother, Mama Ruth. An interesting feature of the restaurant is the garden which follows the iconic rice terraces of Benguet Province. In addition, there is a truly authentic Ifugao house. Set on the terraced garden with tasteful lighting, one indeed is transported to another part of the Philippines. The kids with us enjoyed this highlight immensely. It opens them to a unique cultural Phillipppine icon. Moreover, Jake told us that his parents brought this Ifugao house all the way from the North where the Ifugaos, a Philippine native tribe lived. Four Ifugaos travelled by boat for the first time in their lives to accompany the house and put it back together here. An endeavour that kids around here in the Visayas can appreciate this cultural heritage of our fellow Filipinos up north.
Going back to Marlu’s. Jake emphasized that his vision is for ordinary folks in Iloiloto feel at home in a restaurant with fine dining. He has other plans for the second floor such as a bar, not the typical in the city with blaring lights and loud noise but a place to enjoy a quiet drink with family and friends. He wants to create a ball room for events such as weddings and other celebrations. His over thirty years of living in North America gave him enough experience to make this happen. And soon it will so watch out for its opening. Before you leave the place, look carefully at the Christmas village in the entrance. We’ll see if you can find the historic Farmacia Socorro Building with the famous Roberto’s siopao on top. With Jake, we reminisced the old city with calesas and all to the empty faces of the young ones who did not have such an experience. But to the main feature of the restaurant, its food and service. The food is really delicious. We had Crispy pasta, sinigang with pork belly, smoked salmon and mango salad, and fried chicken for the kids with two kinds of rice. The salad dressing is really good. For desert, we had batirol and sans rival. The latter is not the usual overly sweet one. We had a good conversation with one of the servers around the batirol and suman. The service is impeccable. The servers are always filling up our glasses. By the way, the drinks are superb. I had the sangria which I enjoyed. The others were driving so they stuck to the cucumber and water melon juices (not from powder), healthy and refreshing. The kids spent extra time viewing the fish, the terraces and the Ifugao house. Not only the adults enjoyed but the kids as well. So, with delicious dishes, refreshing drinks, beautiful and unique ambience, super clean facilities, right at the door parking and interesting conversations, what are you waiting for? Marlu's All Filipino Restaurant Tirol Cocjin Building, Unka 2, Pavia, 5001, Iloilo 0917 501 3785 |
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December 2025
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